Length of crank should be 12" from bend for motor to bend for washer. Distance
from bend for washer to end of rod should be about 2" 
Length of crank should be 12" from bend for motor to bend for washer. Distance from bend for washer to end of rod should be about 2"
Rod bent, 2 nuts inplace, ready for washer.
WARNING! 1. make bend for washer 12" from motor. 2. Spin several nuts onto the 2" of shaft for the washer. 3 cut shaft allowing 2" for washer. When you cut the shaft you will screw up the threads and it will be difficult or impossible to screw a nut onto the shaft; but, if you screw a few nuts onto the shaft before cutting when you take the nuts off after cutting they will automatically fix the threads. Sorry, I didn't get pictures of this process
Remember the FCG is upside down right now. After putting nuts in place (about 1" onto the shaft) add one of the big shoulder washers. Then add the "3 hole" washer, sandwiching the smaller washers between the 2 larger ones.
Finally add 2 nuts onto the end of the shaft and adjust every thing down to the end of the shaft. The washers must be able to spin freely. That's why there are 2 nuts on each side. Each nut of a pair of nuts can be tightened against each other to lock the nuts in place with out putting force on the washers. The technospeek term for this trick is "LOCK NUTS". If your having trouble with the concept ask a mechanical friend to explain what lock nuts are and how they work. He will be delighted. It's a good trick that Mech. types love to pass along
Time to lock the shaft into the motor hole. I was originally going to use glue; but, forcing a sheet metal screw (#8 x 1/2) works even better. The threads of the rod pull the screw into place and the extra diameter of the screw forces the rods against the sides of the motor hole. I could not pull this apart.; but, take the screw out and it disassembles very easily.
Finally bend the rod (near the motor) so that the rod is about parallel with the frame
Last Updated 08/29/03